The fresh participants: Piotr Mlotecki (leader), W. Branski, An effective. Gardas, W. Klaput, Meters. Malatynski K. Olech (deputy frontrunner), J. Olszewski, Yards. Piatkowski, An effective. Pietraszek (doctor), M. Rogalski, Z. Rubinoski, A. Sobolewski, Z. Staszyszyn, A good. Strumitto and you will S. Wdowiak.
The first ASCENT Regarding KANGBACHEN, 1974
The initial group spanning A beneficial. Gardas, M. Malatynski, K. Olech, J. Olszewski, Meters. Rogalski, An excellent. Sobolewski having Jepa, Sonam and you will a dozen porters stumbled on the newest Ramtang Area to your elizabeth place where Jugoslav trip had into the 1965.
We started to really works preparing Legs towards fundamental caravan class, starting the reconnaissance of your own npper area of the valley and you may observing the brand new icefall and you can moraine by which the Jugoslavs reached the original patio out of Kangbachen.
The fresh new icefall, shaped within a couple profile is most fractured and the snow level it’s facial skin generated hard early observation out-of crevasses. The newest sides of icefall have been threatened by the avalanches, you to eventually would-be caused by the fresh new seraes about basic terrace. m. relaxed and you may causing avalanches of different models. Due to the recce we selected a safe station through the middle of your icefall, they getting a fairly silent part within seracs as well as the snowfields therefore we going.
With the 20 April, i pitched the original brief tent on top of the fresh new embankment off the initial patio (5750 m.). 2 days after we found a course from moraine hence try endangered reduced of the stone-avalanches as compared to that employed by the brand new Jugoslavs. Go camping I found myself founded into the twenty eight April from the 5400 yards. about icefall however, is actually mainly for have fun with when transporting new tons. Camp II (5850 meters.) try a third of way-up the first terrace. Towards 6 Could possibly get, we were already when you look at the a temporary tent from the 6200 yards., around a steep deal with causing this new obvious saddle within first terrace while the Jannu Area. Which opened pitch are safeguarded that have fixed ropes. The performs is actually carried out in proceeded snowfall and snap blowing continuously till the noon. At the beginning of the brand new morning off eleven Get, We kept the brand new tent (on 6200 yards.) that have An excellent. Sobolewski towards the Base Go camping. We took place rapidly – one hour to help you Camp II, 1J period to Camp I by 9-30 an effective.yards. we had been currently within the Feet Camp. The newest channel from the icefall not resided! Fixed ropes and you will markers had been lower than frost dust – indeed there need come a tremendous direction regarding frost stops.
I met all-in Feet Go camping. Right here we decided to create a different path to the original terrace from upper an element of the horizontal moraine where i observed instead faster dropping stones now than simply step 3 days eardier. Towards the p We and you may lead the equipment to Go camping II. Using this date there is certainly no Go camping I but i continued to hold the last numeration. I founded Go camping III (6350 m.) for the saddle.
With the p III, i remaining the beds base Camp as well as J. Olszewski and you may visited Camp II. The fresh route through moraine are realistically noted into the adorned brick-cairns because of the S. Wdowiak and you may Sherpa Wangchuck whom presented a sizeable aesthetic performance within the doing that actually work. The group off P. Mlotecki appeared on the same go out to Legs Camp. Any party-players have there been but the new Sirdar who’d gone to Ghunza.
Following day we achieved Camp III and you can returned to the night into the tent under the seat, where in fact the wind was not thus striking. On sixteen Will get, an effective piece of cake made the newest active action quite difficult The group regarding W. Branski move a while in the future over the saddle, then originated to Foot, after fixing ropes. Following day we fixed such ropes to possess carried on play with, generated her or him longer by the throughout the several other 100 meters. and you may turned-back with the night so you’re able to Go camping III.